THE HARRIS TECHNIQUE
My unique method used to quickly create realistic fur in a modicum of time is easily mastered, more about but only if the suggested brushes, sales paints, capsule and mediums are used. It is important to recognize that not all brands of brushes, paints, and mediums work well in this technique, so for optimum painting enjoyment, use the supplies I use.
My brushes, paints, and mediums are limited and never change from year to year or design to design. Because they produce such superior results to alternative choices, I urge you to experience them. It will be worth it!
I use only Silver Brush, Ltd. highest quality professional brushes. Of special importance for creating ‘Harris’ fur are the Grand Prix white bristle rounds and the Ruby Satin Filbert grass combs. Both come in a selection of 3 sizes in my brush kits to accommodate all my past, current, and future designs. There are no substitutes available in the US today. Other brushes in the kits are the ones I use to achieve my signature style.
PAINTS & MEDIUMS
While I usually use Professional Permalba oils from Martin/F.Weber, any oil paint performs well. Oils are especially good for painting easy, fast, realistic fur.
Res-n-Gel oil painting medium from Martin/F. Weber is currently the only oil gel medium that is suitable for use in my technique and is compatible with all oils.
Water-soluble oils: wOils may be used with your choice of Res-n-Gel as the gel medium or with acrylic gels. Holbein Duo is also a good water-soluble oil.
I recommend NO other brands currently available.
In acrylics, it is important to select paint with the greatest open time. I use ONLY FolkArt Acrylic Color, Jo Sonja’s Acrylic Gouache, or Hobbyt Acrylic Polymer Emulsion (Holbein, Co.).
All these brands may be used interchangeably with FolkArt Blending Gel Medium, Jo Sonja’s Gel Retarder, Holbein Retarding Medium (for acrylic paint), or Jo Sonja’s Magic Mix. (Magic Mix extends open time slightly less than gel, then dries to a hard film in about 10 minutes.)
CONVERTING YOUR COLORS
Over the years, I have written books, articles, and packets using both oils and acrylics from several manufacturers that I find are best suited to my style and technique. Since my technique does not vary significantly regardless of which of these paints and mediums are used, the conversion information featured here will allow you to effortlessly adapt any design to any brand of paint featured.
Conversions shown in the chart are compatible with my designs, but may not be scientifically accurate equations. When mixing formulas, if proportion numbers are not indicated, variations of hue are acceptable. Gradually add subsequent color(s) to the first color listed until the desired hue is achieved.
I use the color “FAWN” in a majority of my designs. At one time, this signature color was manufactured by FolkArt brand paint, but now Fawn must be mixed when using all brands of acrylic and oil paint.
FolkArt = 4 Medium Yellow + 3?4 Raw Umber + 1 Burnt Sienna.
JoSonja’s = 4 Cadmium Yellow Mid + 3-4 Raw Umber + 1 Burnt Sienna Oils = 4 Cadmium Yellow Light + 3?4 Raw Umber + 1 Burnt Sienna.
Hobbyt = see chart for simplest mix.
However, you may also create Fawn using 5 Imidazolone Yellow (222) + 1 Burnt Umber (265) + touch Shadow Green (237).
For a quick approximate Fawn color for very small areas use: Any bright yellow + any Burnt Umber (approximately 1:1) until paint is the color of Bambi when smeared on white palette.
|FOLKART ACRYLIC COLORS||JO SONJA’S ACRYLIC GOUACHE||HOBBYT ~ ACRYLIC POLYMER EMULSION||OILS (any brand )|
|Alizarin Crimson||Perm Alizarine||205 Napthol Red Deep +
t 252 Quinacridone Magenta
|Aqua||Aqua||241 Pthalo Turquoise. + 276 white + t 232 Brilliant Green||White + t Prussian Blue
& Sap Green
|Burnt Sienna||Burnt Sienna||264 Burnt Sienna||Burnt Sienna|
|Burnt Umber||Burnt Umber||265 Burnt Umber||Burnt Umber|
|Dioxazine Purple||Dioxazine Purple||251 Dioxazine Violet||Dioxazine Purple|
|FAWN* or MIX**||MIX **||231 Olive Green + 263 Raw Sienna 4:1 or MIX**||MIX **|
|Hauser Green Light||Green Light. +
Nimbus Grey 1:1
|238 Misty Green +
t 222 Imidazolone Yellow
|Sap Green + white +
t yellow + t red
|Hauser Green Medium||Pine Green +
|238 Misty Green +
t 235 Forrest Green
|Sap Green +
|Light Red Oxide||Red Earth||261 Red Ochre||Light Red Oxide|
|Medium Yellow||Cadmium Yellow Mid||222 Imidazolone Yellow||Cadmium Yellow Light
or Medium ***
|Prussian Blue*||Prussian Blue Hue||241 Pthalo Turquoise +
t 271 Lamp Black
|Pure Black||Carbon Black||271 Lamp Black||Ivory Black|
|Raw Sienna||Raw Sienna||263 Raw Sienna||Raw Sienna|
|Raw Umber||Raw Umber||265 Burnt Umber
+ 237 Shadow Green. 2:1
|Red Light||Cadmium Scarlet||206 Imidazolone Orange (+ t 205 Napthol Red Light )||Cadmium Red Light|
|Sap Green||Sap Green||234 Oxide of Chromium +
t 222 Imidazalone Yellow
|Titanium White||Titanium White||222 Snow White||Titanium White|
|True Burgundy||Burgundy||201 Burgundy||Alizarin(e) Crimson****|
|Warm White||Warm White||225 Ivory||White + Naples Yel.|
~ Hobbyt acrylic polymer emulsion colors currently available only in Japan.
* No longer in production.
** Mix Fawn color with formulas shown above.
*** Oil colors vary significantly. The medium value may be used if not too “orangish”.
**** Use several layers to make this transparent hue dark enough.
Colors other than shown are rarely used in my designs. In this case, substitute your choice of hue as accuracy is not necessary.